Riffing in a straightforward way on the naval theme that he'd more opaquely alluded to in his Spring Couture show, Riccardo Tisci sent out his most concise and focused ready-to-wear collection yet for Givenchy. All it took, according to his program notes, was a Japanese marine jacket circa the 1920's.
Coats and jackets looked particularly strong. A navy fur with a deep, rich pile was the very essence of opulence. Easier to wear, and sure to sell by the boatload, were the fitted peacoats and blazers, including a few winners with face-framing collars cut to look like oversize ribbons.
Skirts came long and lean and trailing fishtail hems, while black dresses were wrapped asymmetrically about the body. For trousers, Tisci showed two distinct styles: The first was essentially a sailor pant, high-waisted and narrow through the thigh, then flaring dramatically at the ankle; the less said about the droopy leather drawers, the better.
In short, all wasn't perfect. The brass buttons that decorated dresses and coats in Art Deco patterns will, for those who want to wear them beyond the runway, be better in smaller doses. The twisting and pleated pink party frocks seemed out of place among the predominantly black and navy palette. And the white opaque hosiery and glittery heels were styling missteps. But all in all, Tisci has really improved. Good for him.