Marc Jacobs commandeered Claridge's, flew in a planeload of pretty friends, and changed the air in London the minute his gang started tripping into the Marc by Marc Jacobs show. Was it a glorious social spectacle? Of course. For London to get a look at Sofia Coppola, Zoe Cassavetes, Selma Blair, Rufus Wainwright, Lisa Marie, and Lucie de la Falaise in the flesh was a rare treat indeed. This sort of thing does not happen in the raw basements of London fashion week.
But was it a life-changing show? Of course not. "Oh, I always think it's silly to talk about themes and inspirations," said Jacobs with engaging frankness. "The collection's just always about this youthful, angelic, idyllic army. It's comprised of a lot of thingsbig plaids, layered woolliness, gangly stockingsbut really, it's all about how people will break it down and wear it in their own way."
In other words, it was supercute and stuffed with lovely accessories from the tip of a furry bonnet to the toe of the stack-heeled "skating boots." Skating was (loosely) the theme that ran through the cozy pileup of blanket-check coats, flimsy dresses pulled over stripy sweaters, knitted salopettes, and wide gray tweed pants. For something so layered, though, it never seemed heavy, perhaps because of the short proportions and the minute, swingy pleated skirts that flipped under Empire coats. As only in a Marc by Marc Jacobs show, all this managed to look both girlishly spontaneous and thought-out down to the last little detailthe details being thick gray rib tights; scarves with deep pockets in each end; platform hiking boots; a great selection of berets, beanies, pom-pom fur riding hats; and a covetable squished, peaked trapper's hat.
And why was all this getting shown in London? As a one-off in celebration of the Marc Jacobs store that opened this week on Mount Street in the heart of Mayfair. It finished off London fashion week with a bangand a bash. At the after-party at the Connaught, weary showgoers gratefully got to eat, drink, and be merry for the first time in days.