Working in a limited palette, mostly austere black with splashes of bold red, Julia Jentzsch and Waleed Khairzada set their minds on volume and proportion. ¿We wanted to reimagine the geometry and movement of the clothes on the body,¿ Khairzada said, after the show at the Baryshnikov Arts Center in Hell¿s Kitchen.
The recent Ecco Domani winners achieved said goal through the use of high-tech materials (fabric technology is a near obsession with them) and clever, precise tailoring. In the volume department: a balloon-like parka, ¿sphere¿ jackets and tops that bubbled away from the body, wide-legged pants, and puffed sleeves. Plays on proportion included oversize blazers that brought to mind eighties power suiting and elongated silhouettes in the form of a slim, high-waisted skirt suit and breezy silk column dresses.
A smart business executive could fill her closet with Naum and never worry about looking inappropriate. But a cooler creative type, who¿s never suffered under fluorescent lights in her life, would be a happy Naum customer, too.