Until the Pollini show, there hadn¿t been much allusion, direct or indirect, to the conflict in the Middle East this season. Rifat Ozbek changed that with his second look out: an innocuous-looking short silver shift that on closer inspection revealed an embroidered figurearms in the air, mouth agapeplucked straight from Picasso¿s Guernica. (Of course, this being Ozbek, a designer who always has a lot going on, and this being fashion, it wasn¿t immediately clear how many in the audience had noticed his cri de coeur.)
Ozbek kitted out his power babes with all sorts of military regalia, most of it less in-your-face than that opening salvo. Tone-on-tone frogging decorated the collars and lapels of parkas and coats. A black silk jacquard used for a coat-dress and a jacket-mini combo looked for all intents and purposes like a miniature camo print. Then there were the green, red, and purple berets and the leather bags slung around the hips, fanny-pack style.
On the softer side were little dresses with flowers for epaulets and tops decorated all over with chiffon rosettes that were worn with short shorts in a substantial gray-wool knit. All in all, it was a good effort from Ozbek, and those dresses and rosettes were very pretty. (But pretty enough to make you forget the op-ed rumblings of a potential U.S. invasion of Iran, now that Ozbek's brought up the subject? That¿s a different question.)