Swapping the Dome at the Soho Grand for the swish environs of the National Arts Club, Threeasfour's Gabi, Ange, and Adi showed their most sophisticated collection to date. Pushing their signature circular cutting techniques and curving seams in new directions, they sent out an asymmetric pieced tank with a slimly wrapped tweedy skirt almost bourgeois in its tidiness. Then, fast on its heels, came an utterly cool metallic leather motorcycle jacket that tapered and draped from the model's shoulders as if she'd worn it for years.
Not all 21 looks were showstoppers. A gray silk gown spliced into heavy fringes drooped, and the head wraps don't have a chance off of the runwaylikewise, let's hope, a fuchsia dress with cutouts at the torso worn by Lydia Hearst. But these were overshadowed by a number of better pieces. A quilted silk color-block jacket channeled the best of Koos van den Akker (whom insiders will remember was a big influence at Marc Jacobs and Balenciaga a few years back). And an ingeniously cut tendril of a dress had ruffles cascading from under the bust to the floor. When the model looped her hand under the strap ruffle at the shoulder and swung it out from her body, the graceful sweep of green silk crepe produced a collective sigh of appreciation.