Todd Lynn has chosen a narrow field in which to work: androgynous tailoring that works for both men and women. It's a smart decision, because apart from anything else, not many people have been doing that since Helmut Lang withdrew from the picture. It's also a bold decision, because as any expert cutter knows, it takes years to hone a signature in that exacting craft. So, the tightness and rigor in Lynn's second presentation was a pleasing thing to watch. It opened with a girl in a short, lean coat-dress, which, on a man, was worn as a jacket. That's Lynn's point: He adjusts the same shapes to fit both male and female, and mostly he managed to pull it off without turning either sissy or butch in the wrong places.
A short black wool jacket with a pointed front, worn with a white wing-tip collar, had an impeccable graphic punch on both sexes. The wide-legged trouser with a pleat implanted toward the outer leg was an improved reprise of a pant he showed last season, a refreshingly flattering alternative to the predictable skinnies. Meanwhile, shirts with subtle strips of lace running down the front and cutaway, high-collared jackets had something of a goth attitude about thembut minimal goth. Which is a good thing, because Lynn's prices are luxe-level, and these pieces are designed more to be keepers than overtly styled seasonal fashion. Even after two seasons, it seems clear that Lynn will be developing his cut by increments onlyand the interesting thing is, that feels right.