What a difference a year makes. In 12 little months, BCBG Max Azria has blossomed from a girl into a woman, with a Fall collection of elegant jersey dancer dresses and (admittedly, a bit more awkward) Katharine Hepburn-style tailoringall in a restrained, dare we say sober, palette. "BCBG has evolved so many times," says creative director Lubov Azria backstage. "This is a direction that feels wearable and clean." All of New York seems to be growing up this season, actually, asat least judging from the early showsbody-conscious sophistication is finally toppling the cult of the sack. Here, every look was cinched at the waist with a rugged leather and wool belt, which also added a needed edge to soigné silhouettes. Details like trapunto seaming, cartridge pleats, and sexy flashes of skin did the same. As the show progressed, the girlishness that is still a necessary component of a contemporary line finally reared its pretty little head in minidresses of colored satin and pleated silk crepe short enough to qualify for the "Dress or blouse?" guessing game. Just the dose of fun the doctor ordered.