In a season when "simplicity"or, more accurately, a redefinition of the dead term "minimalism"is preoccupying fashion debate, Consuelo Castiglioni filled in the blanks with color. She has a painterly eye for an offbeat choice of shades: dove gray against sugar pink, emerald with beige, sharp yellow and dusty mauve, muted pastels butting up against the odd shocking-bright hue. The shapes? Well, they were the lumpy-fit Marni classics that have unwittingly spawned a zillion cruder replicas: loose tunics, clunky cropped pants, quirky capes and dresses with sleeves cut to pouf out in unexpected directions.
Layered up, it made a statement about color-blocked, tiered dressing and contrasting textures, topped off with dyed-fur gilets and capelets (a reminder of Marni's beginnings as a fur house). Truth to tell, there wasn't enough forward momentum in the clothes to break new groundeven in the prints, which were mainly limited to a couple of shadowy checks and a swirly pattern, possibly inspired by stained-glass windows. Still, the accessories picked up the slack: Stripe-printed tights and socks, leather gauntlets, nerdy-chic sunglasses, furry backpacks, sequined tie-on neckpieces, and open-toed platform knee boots were all quirky items that will keep the faithful very happy indeed.