Wolfgang Joop's space-age seta pair of giant, pulsing half-spheres around which the models walkedwas straight out of 2046, the Kar Wai Wong sci-fi film. The clothes themselves were more Lolita. Well, not exactly, but this was Joop's youngest-feeling Wunderkind collection yet, full of neon-bright prints, fabric collages, and mini lengths, all accessorized with ankle boots and opaque tights, or the occasional pair of insane fluorescent-beaded leggings.
His tweedy bouclé three-piece suits (that's jacket, cropped pants, and mini) came with the exaggerated shoulders that always indicate a designer has the future on his mind. The shoulders carried over into shifts patchworked from quilted yokes, plaid underlayers, and printed chiffons. The lineup's star attractions were a knitted fur coat playfully embellished with tufts of neon Tibetan lamb and a couple of graffiti dresses, one ruched and tiered and to the knee, and the other a loose tent that was longer in back than in front. What his futuristic Lolitas have to do with last season's luxe bohos is anybody's guess, but it looked like Joop had fun dreaming up his pastiche, and as offbeat as it was, it did include plenty of cute pieces.