Filip Arickx and An Vandevorst are on their own trip. For Fall, they dreamed up a nomad who's "at home wherever she goes." They explained: She wears clothes with interesting new volumes constructed by integrating the squares, triangles, and circles of multiculti folkloric patterns into Western silhouettes.
On the more obvious side, this concept resulted in a sleeping-bag coat in wool felt quilted up the back with geometric shapes; and silk dresses and rabbit-fur vests checkerboarded or chevroned in complementary shades of green, gray, and brown. On the subtler side, it produced trenches with built-out shoulders and a floor-length dress with eye-grabbing diamond-shaped insets on the sides. Tangentially, there were dolman-sleeved cotton shirts in horse-blanket stripes (one in loden green and black, the other ivory and black) worn with jodhpurs. But, unsurprisingly, this wasn't equestrian like you've seen it on other runways: Note the platform boots that looked like horse hooves. Still, footwear aside, this collection contained plenty of real-world clothes, not always a given at an A.F. Vandevorst show, and Filip and An should be taking plenty of girls along for the ride this season.