Looking eastward through the Iron Curtain, São Paulo native Alexandre Herchcovitch was inspired by the late Georgian cinematic maestro Sergei Parajanov. Elements of traditional costume from various regions of the former U.S.S.R. were filtered through the designer's thoroughly urban lens: beautiful old-world silk prints became quilted motorcycle jackets; oversize metal studs (painted to resemble wood, a common embellishment in Armenia, according to Herchcovitch) trimmed delicate blouses; and ornate rhinestone embroideries added a finishing touch to tailored wool coats.
Also worth a mention was a series of crocheted pieces crafted from rubber, yarn, black crystals, and gold chains—definitely not your babushka's needlework. Add printed bandannas, wood-chain headpieces, and bell necklaces to the mix and it was sensory overload in the best way possible. With the exception of a slashed black mesh top that felt too warrior-woman for the classic-punk mash-up he was aiming for, this was a very self-assured season. Several on hand described it as his best yet.