"I always wanted to live a man's life in a woman's body." That quote, which appeared at the top of her show notes, is something Diane von Furstenberg
has said before, so it's perhaps surprising that men's suiting is something
she hasn't explored much in the past. Its appearance here today helped make
for one of the designer's more satisfying shows in a while.
To start things off, von Furstenberg threw a bolero densely embroidered with chiffon rosettes over a heather gray felted wool double-breasted pantsuit with short, cuffed trousers. It was a novel concept that she repeated later with an ivory silk cord cardigan worn over a satin black tuxedo jacket and matching evening jumpsuit, though it's not as believable a look as, say, a corduroy jacket with leather elbow patches slipped on top of a ruffled chiffon minidress.
But it wasn't all about playing the hard against the soft. Frocks, the wrap dress in particular, are this designer's bread and butter, and there was no shortage of feminine frills here. Some of the more interesting offerings included a simple black shift with chain mail inset horizontally below the hips, a twenties-ish belted chiffon tunic dress worn over cropped pants, and a vibrant panne velvet number embellished with a giant glittering beetle, not unlike the dress von Furstenberg wore to take her bow. This was her right-hand man Nathan Jenden's last show; he's leaving to focus on his signature collection. No doubt they were both pleased to be ending their relationship on a positive note for their victory lap.