As much as Donna Karan has an issue with fashion's seasonal system and off-kilter deliveries, she's definitely not one for the "seasonless" route some designers take. As much as last Spring's collection was clean and breezy, today's show spilled over with layers and layers of cold-weather-appropriate wares.
The overall look here was sixties schoolgirl. Nearly every skirt on these side-ponytailed lasses was mini and pleated, some in wool and others in a thick leather that pushed the vibe out of decades past (tasseled loafers, now transformed into aggressive platforms, did the same). Those kicky skirts were worn with long, oversize wool coats—a notch more outsize than the boyfriend blazer—little tailored jackets, or cardigans and turtlenecks. To finish off, there were long scarves, astrakhan newsboys, and ankle socks or woolen tights. The outerwear was especially strong. Highlights: a gray hooded toggle coat and boyfriend-tailored vest coats that kept the layering polished and cool.
Karan added a twist to the proceedings by going from grammar to art school, citing Bauhaus as the source for her color-blocked sweaters in moody autumn hues. As day turned to evening, those Mondrian-esque motifs were collaged in with various panels of beading. A couple overdid it, but they could be forgiven. Not worthy of mercy, however, was the splashy floral—a print not fit for news.