The crimped hair and the soundtrack from the glam, disco-era seventies put Roksanda Ilincic's audience in a good mood—not an easy thing to swing on a wet weekday afternoon. The clothes, too, made for the kind of viewing that lets a woman lower her hackles and relax while imagining what she might look like at some party or other in the fall. Ilincic's attraction is that she's a woman designer who goes out a lot, and knows that the easiest things sometimes work best. Her confidence and accomplishment in spinning a bolt of fabric around the body and fastening it with a single seam is growing season by season, and the addition of matte gray jersey to her signature fluid charmeuse silhouettes looked good.
What's new this season is the stealthy broadening of her vocabulary into items that could, for the first time, be construed as daywear. She's branched into floppy crepe blouses (which chime nicely with the season's feel for luxe sportswear) and a few pieces of outerwear. A couple of sweeping bouclé coats with fox sleeves and a belted jacket recall the panache of forties actresses hurrying to work on the MGM lot. A little glamour for everyday? No harm in that.