Having pulled off a string of red-carpet coups recently, Toni Maticevski can hardly be faulted for making his case as an awards-show designer. After all, Oscar night is less than a month away. Maticevski's flair for drama was on display—he likes his fabrics shiny and his embellishments shinier—but a few of the looks could have benefited from a bit more restraint. He was at his best when he kept it simple.
The silk tulle and organza gowns in dove gray that opened the show were sweet and chic; with their hair slicked back in dressy ballerina chignons, the models looked like a pair of Degas dancers out for a night on the town. The multilayered polka-dot evening dresses in silk chiffon would look great on any number of the latest crop of barely twentysomething starlets.
Before the show, Maticevski mentioned he was working on "slicing up and segmenting the body," and that intention was clear in the visual slashes made by unflattering strips and swags of fabric and in the peacock-feather-festooned bras that topped a few busy ensembles. Still, there were interesting experiments in layering and ornamentation here, and in another season or two—maybe by the time the Golden Globes roll around again—Maticevski will likely have worked out the kinks.