As a design MO it's hard to go wrong surrounding yourself with fashionable girlfriends and making them what they want. Lately, Milan Vukmirovic's pals have been moving away from the rock 'n' roll aesthetic that influenced his Spring lineup for Trussardi 1911 and looking more toward Paris in the seventies for inspiration. Think Jane Birkin or Romy Schneider in fitted flares with a short, slightly military-influenced coat over a feminine silk blouse.
Updates on these classics have been appearing on lots of other runways this season, but women looking for a new, unexpected resource could do worse than hitting up this recently resuscitated nearly 100-year-old Italian brand. Vukmirovic worked his slim silhouette in a multitude of want-able fabrics: oversize houndstooth (he uses the French term pied-de-poule, which translates to "chicken feet"), Lurex-shot bouclé, ladylike double-face cashmere in heathery shades of camel and gray, and edgier leather-coated tweed. Some of the bags have a bit too much Chanel and Hermès in them, but the designer has other temptations in store, mostly in the form of statement-making outerwear. A horizontally pleated and ruched black leather jacket, a sheepskin coat-dress with an undulating zipper that opens and closes from both the top and bottom, and a collarless A-line jacket in lamb fur dyed a subtly chic shade of café au lait—those all have serious It potential.