Elie Saab has said à bientôt to
Miss Havisham. Where his January Couture show drooped under the weight of heavy embellishments, this collection felt a bit lighter and—it follows—more modern. That's not to say that the designer has changed his look; there were still scads of beads and crystals, as befits the haute couture, and even strips of fur were used as accents. But Saab's diaphanous, fairy princess dresses felt of this Paris moment. He caught the feeling for the long-sleeved, slim gowns that we've seen elsewhere, opening with one in an icy gray-blue tulle that was draped and gathered at the waist and accented with metallic silver.
Next up was a sleeveless full-length dress followed by a knee-skimming number in the same shade of aquamarine. Saab worked his methodical way through his palette. After a section in pale blue came white, then pink, mauve, and brown. He ended with a navy group and a single bride in platinum white. It seemed there was a backless dress in every color. Saab's old-fashioned, repetitive way of showing detracts from his precious workmanship. He's seen fit to upgrade the clothes themselves; now, perhaps it's time to update his presentations. He could start by kissing the wind machine good-bye.