Bodkin designer Eviana Hartman showed a polished, wearable collection at her first-ever fashion week presentation this evening. Bodkin has earned plaudits for its commitment to sustainability, and when pressed, Hartman can catalog the eco pros and cons of each of her fabrics, and talk at length about her sourcing of materials and her production process. It's to her credit, though, that you can't read any of the green into the clothes: As a designer, Hartman has always specialized in an aesthetic that's clean, easy-feeling, and urbane. Her Fall collection was more of the same, in a good way.
The news this time out was Bodkin's sweaters, launched here. These included felted wool cable knits and a variety of marled cashmere blends, all of which fit seamlessly into the line. The other story was texture: Hartman, who was inspired by the Clyfford Still painting (1951-1952), worked to give each of her materials a distinctive tactile quality, often subtle. To wit, a pair of tapered sweats in double-faced organic cotton jersey, which had a built-in rumple, and a wool jersey dress with knit-in peaks. Elsewhere, raw edges and seaming details provided the textural element. Everything was versatile and functional. And Hartman is particularly good at fusing the formal and casual—take the collarless car coat, made out of organic cotton sherpa. "It's kind of like a tailored version of the Patagonia fleece I wore in college," she noted. That emphasis on texture, and on using materials with a sense of warmth, is one of the most winning aspects of Bodkin. Hartman put it well: "It's like a kinder, gentler cool."