If the model in look no. 11 at today's DKNY show had taken a detour from the runway choreography and strolled out onto West 26th Street, she probably would have set the phalanx of street-style photographers stationed there a-snapping. That was a good sign. There are times when DKNY strays from its raison d'être of relevant, cool clothes for young women, but here Donna Karan and her team squarely hit the mark.
The collection, dubbed New York Mods, began on a tough menswear note of sharp, color-blocked tailoring mixing it up with motorcycle jackets. But there was a definite vein of luxury here, too. Those cape-coats looked rather well-made, as did another coat with leather sleeves, a leopard-print fur, and a glossy black shearling. But Karan maintained a whiff of Carnaby Street cool with stripey angora sweaters, cute Peter Pan-collared dresses, and porkpie hats.
There was more kick to the look as Karan amped up the color to reds and pinks, and introduced an oversize houndstooth plaid. At times that manic, bright combination was tempered with jackets and cardigans in a golden ocher, a nice alternative to bone-tired camel. For the most part these are familiar clothes, but one great new idea was the puffer jacket redone in a thick ribbed knit. Aside from the slightly lackluster tuxedo redux that closed the show, there was lots to love here for all girls, aspiring street-style stars and beyond.