L'Wren Scott named her Fall collection A Tropical Conversation after a favorite Gauguin painting, seen a few months ago in her favorite city of London. Perhaps it seems strange to talk tropical for Fall, especially in a season where we've already seen some serious outerwear, but Scott marches to the beat of her own drummer. (Or should that be front man? As usual, her beau Mick Jagger was on hand to lend support at today's presentation in a 24th Street art gallery.)
"Everyone talks about Fall/Winter, but all I can think is how I want to see color and be happy," Scott said before the showing. That should make any dedicated fan—whether it's Sarah Jessica Parker, Nicole Kidman, or Michelle Obama—happy, too, as the designer has a pretty terrific color sense. On her modern Chelsea girls—all teased, side-combed hair and kohled eyes—there were jeweled green, royal blue, and a whole spectrum of purples. But the icing on Scott's color cake is always a sophisticated, unexpected combination, like a grape cardigan over an emerald satin blouse, all tucked into a lemon yellow pencil skirt.
Business is growing steadily. Witness the debut of a capsule collection of handbags here today, a sure sign that Scott has an eye on expansion. And as such, the scope of her designs continues to widen. Last season, she explored a looser silhouette to uneven effect, but today she struck a great balance with fits that don't look like they require pushing away the potpie she likes to serve the guests at her presentations. There were dresses with a slight tulip flare to their skirts, and a wider trouser was fluid and loose but maintained some of that signature lean, sharp edge. Check out the ice blue pair worn with a terrific little ombré velvet jacket. The counterpoint to that: a new, much shorter length than the designer's ever done.
By the end, the models were back in black. But, particularly in the looks embroidered with a chic feather motif, that was still a very happy place.