For Fall, Ohne Titel's Flora Gill and Alexa Adams were inspired by space suits. "We were intrigued by the way they morph what we think of as normal proportions on the body," Adams explained at a preview. The heart of this collection was undeniably knitwear, rather than anything as literal as an astronaut's synthetics. (During the preview, Gill was at home whipping up a few more samples on her knitting machine for the show.) On a plain gray sweater coat, you could easily make out the rounded shoulder and crenellated circular sleeve that bloomed at the elbow and softened into various textures before narrowing to raised bands at the wrist.
Using those techniques, Gill and Adams evolved the knit jumpers and short dresses with graphic blocks of red, black, gray, and royal blue and various tactile textures. They used velvet-trimmed zippers to play with adding and subtracting volume. That mixed-media concept was taken further in heavy but ultra-luxe coats that combined fur, shearling, curly lamb, leather, and thick ribbed knit. The look played to the sharp, ankle-booted urban warrior they've been dressing for a few seasons. But here there was a lighter touch of sophistication in sheer organza blouses, layered under stark but pretty dresses with circular pleats—a NASA-gear echo—fringed with fake hair.
This season seems to be the first in the wake of the recession with an overwhelmingly packed schedule. Gill and Adams aren't unknown newbies, but the glut of designers does underscore the importance of standing out. There are often echoes of other designers here—today Balenciaga was one—but Gill and Adams have more than enough skill and vision to earn Ohne Titel its place at the table.