There were a lot of ideas on the Sportmax runway. Despite the fact that the press notes said all of them were inspired by "the chilly northern Europe portrayed in Ingmar Bergman's films, the timeless design of Arne Jacobsen, moorlands, and wide open spaces," it wasn't always easy to see how they fit together. But in the end that's of little matter. This is MaxMara's workhorse brand, and based on the trends we've seen elsewhere this season, more than a few of the design team's propositions look destined to stick. Most obvious, given that this is first an outerwear company, are the multi-fur coats. In a similar vein, the duster that opened the show and the V-neck sweater paneled in fur in the front have brethren on other runways, and that will make them a popular buy with retailers. A bit more surprising here were the paillettes—the best iteration was the narrow, side-slit skirt worn with the ribbed peplum sweater.
Again, though, given that fashion's two biggest names, Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada, have been using sequins, these pieces will be a good sales bet. On the other hand, some items—the patent leather peplums-cum-belts and a couple of backless blouses providing glimpses of neon harness bras—looked like plays for editorial love. The award for coolest outfit goes to the long quilted vest belted over a white button-down and burgundy ankle-baring trousers.