Futuristic fashion collections take a dim view of the world to come. Designers tend to eschew giddy techno-optimism in favor of either a Blade Runner-esque vision, urban and Orwellian, or a post-apocalyptic Mad Max take on things. Todd Lynn's new collection, shown today, wasn't overtly futuristic, but it had that Mad Max vibe. Lots of black leather and earthy neutrals, shot through with blood red; fabrics caped, stretched, and draped across the body; fur collars that swam up over the face, as though protecting against some species of flesh-eating radioactive bug.
The future according to Lynn isn't all bad, though. For one thing, it's emphatically well tailored. The designer is a whiz with leather, and if you're still in the market for a pair of rock star skinny leather leggings or a sinuous leather jacket with daggered edges, this collection is the place to find 'em. Lynn also showed some long matte silk skirts, draped Haider Ackermann-style—if these didn't look new, they still looked timely—and several cool knits, including a nice asymmetric wool hand-knit for the boys, and a wool rib for women that hugged the body like neoprene. Good, wearable pieces, these. There were also a fair amount of dystopic-looking men's suits, some with leather sleeves, others with a caped front that definitely fell on the less wearable end of the spectrum. Lynn's most interesting idea had to do with his shoulders: When he wasn't softening them with curved construction, he obscured them completely, creating habitlike collars that folded down over the shoulder, then flared out again. It made for an attractive silhouette. The show's standout piece, however, may have been the heavy-duty, long leather gloves the designer sent out with a good number of his looks: They'll be just the thing when the day arrives for fighting off the zombie hordes. Or, more mundanely, they'll really come in handy next winter.