"We were having a Cardin moment," Dushane Noble said of the Fall collection he designed for
TSE under Jessica Groom. But this wasn't a back to the future-type deal. Subtle luxury is the cashmere company's modus operandi, so the designers riffed on Pierre Cardin's sharp, minimal lines more than the space-age sixties-ness the Frenchman has come to be known for. "We liked the purity of his clothes," Noble added. If the geometric, metal shapes of the necklaces, cuffs, and belt hardware could've stepped out of William Klein's cult film, Qui êtes-vous, Polly Maggoo?, the clothes were anti-retro. That's thanks in part to the modern materials the designers like to work with. Take, say, the velvet yarn that they knit into a bold turtleneck sweater with a poncholike shape, or the razor-thin shearling that they used for the body of a jacket with densely knit ribbed sleeves.
Speaking of movies, the designers enlisted Douglas Keeve of Unzipped and Seamless fame to direct a short film that made its debut at today's presentation. Without Paul takes place in modern-day New York, and there really isn't a piece in this collection—from the double-faced cashmere coat to the long-sleeve shift dress in an oversize alpaca knit—that you can't imagine walking off the screen and onto the city streets. For a brand like TSE, that spells success.