Essential was the title that Giorgio Armani gave to his new Emporio
collection. Provocative move—it compelled a focus on just what it could
possibly be that would make Armani's latest designs impossible for men to
live without. The show notes endorsed the "compact opaqueness" of wool as
the pure essence of a post-nylon-sportswear world. A color palette that was
primarily gray had a solemnity that suited such an
austere notion, and there were monkish coats that also fit with the idea,
the best of them lined in white to give a flash of purity.
The overwhelming impression of the show was actually softness, scarcely
anything new with Armani. The pliability of velvet and chenille jackets and
coats was restrained by casual belting. A knit coat over a matching jacket
made an interesting take on a male twinset. Another focus was headgear. It
made little sense in tandem with the idea of essentials, but it fit quite
comfortably with Armani's occasionally wayward yen to please himself.
Headscarves, shawls, preacher hats, hoods, and berets were curious addenda to
a show that otherwise stayed true to form.