The development is coming fast and furious at Christopher Raeburn. Last season saw the launch of the designer's jersey separates and a capsule collection of women's ready-to-wear; this time out Raeburn began adding accessories to his brand, and for the first time presented his womenswear collection on its own. Still, for the time being at least, the heart of the Christopher Raeburn brand remains his excellent outerwear, which serves as a jumping-off point for the rest of his collection. There were numerous examples of top-notch coats and jackets here, starting with the very first look—a black wool oversize parka with external nylon pockets—and ending with the very last. That final look, a high-waisted, shiny white anorak that nearly reached the floor, was the only piece of outerwear that really broke the Raeburn mold, but the detailing on the rest of the coats and jackets showed a continuing refinement of his style.
The jersey and the ready-to-wear, meanwhile, continue to come off as works in progress. Raeburn treats his jerseys as a kind of base layer; aside from the eye-popping polka-dot print, he keeps the pieces rather unassuming. This season he showed snug pencil skirts and hooded tops. The ready-to-wear felt more provisional yet: The parachute skirts were a nice idea, and a full yellow wool skirt was attractive, but the striped grosgrain ribbon on a couple of garments looked somewhat tacked on. Wool ski pants quilted in a zigzag pattern were more chic, but you wondered how they'd look on anybody not model-size. As for the new accessories, there was only one: a squared-off backpack with a detachable exterior bag that could serve as a clutch or an iPad case. Clever, and a very good starting point.