"Doo.Ri" and "draping" are virtually synonymous at this point, whether
Doo-Ri Chung likes it or not. For the past few seasons, the designer has
been kicking against her reputation as New York's draper extraordinaire
and emphasizing her collections' tailoring and knits. Today, however, Chung
came home to herself, helped along by the inspiration of Butoh dance and
its poetry of motion. This collection boasted some of her strongest draped
silhouettes in a while, notably the twist-top blouses and dresses. Here and
elsewhere, necks were high, which gave the form-fitting silhouettes an air
of barely suppressed sexiness. A sleeveless ink-blue wrap dress with a
twist top, for instance, came off like something Halston might have
produced after a stint at a Buddhist monastery.
Meanwhile, the collection's knits and tailored pieces were nicely done, if unexciting. Chung's most interesting idea, literalizing the Butoh reference, was to create jackets and coats that looked like two overlapping garments. There was also a nice color story on the runway today: The tonal combinations of pale pink and shades of brown and eggplant looked particularly fresh. The one really off element was the laser cutting on several pieces: It's a technique Chung has used to good effect in the past, but it may have run its course.