As Sharon Wauchob explained before the Edun show today, her strategy in taking the creative reins at the label was to start quietly. Now that it's been a year, she says she finally felt ready to raise the volume. Well, job done: This season's collection claimed stronger color, greater textural variation and more ambitious silhouettes than the brand has been known for in the past. In general, it boasted a clear point of view.
The color was mostly in Wauchob's jungle-inspired prints, which the designer twisted, wrapped, and draped in a variety of sculptural ways. Pops of color could also be found in the collection's graphic knits, a strong but small group that could have gotten more airtime in the show. Alongside the dresses, Wauchob's principal proposition was a fitted, often asymmetric top worn with baggy leather or dense wool trousers with an elasticized hem; the look was sharp and urbane, if not exactly groundbreaking. But the real standout of this collection was the outerwear—the slightly oversize bombers and parkas, in particular—and the lacquered hand-knit sweaters and leather skirts. The black skirt and sweater with coats of blue lacquer were seriously cool, with a futuristic mien.
The main quibble here is that, for all the sharp-looking stuff on the catwalk, Edun hasn't marked off any territory as clearly its own. With the possible exception of the print dresses, you wouldn't be terribly surprised to find many of these clothes on another brand's runway. That's the next notch on the volume, and Wauchob has positioned herself well to turn it up.