It was a nippy 41 degrees in Paris tonight, and it felt colder inside the cavernous Lycée Carnot waiting for the Givenchy
show to start. Not even the celebrity heat of Alicia Keys, Kanye West, and Sean Combs could stop you from shivering. But the second galloping horses began pounding on the loudspeakers and the neon lights started pulsating to the beat, Riccardo Tisci had the crowd going. Seven years into his tenure at Givenchy, he's as confident as they come.
For Fall, he gave his super-influential tailoring an equestrian spin. Jackets were boyish from the front, but all girl from the back with peplums, bustles, and tails. There were more pants here than he's trotted out lately, and they had an easy jodhpur shape—full through the upper thighs, then stuffed into knee-high boots with heel-covering sheaths. There was also a lot of leather: on a second-skin turtleneck dress that flared below the hips, as well as on a black coat reversed in red with kimono sleeves. Furs were patchworks of red, brown, and black.
The feminine side of the collection was influenced, Tisci's show notes
explained, by the seventies photography of Guy Bourdin. Suspended from the
shoulders by delicate straps, cocktail dresses were mere wisps of silk embellished with lace and rows of rhinestones. A red and black number recalled an early show Tisci did for the house, but the version that paired sky blue and orange silk with a purple belt was the keeper here.
Today's outing wasn't the silhouette changer that last season was. (You'll have noticed by now that peplums, Tisci's news for Spring, have been absolutely everywhere this month.) While he's been consolidating, others have been catching up. But it's simply a mark of the influence his Givenchy has attained the last few seasons that we look to him to stay out in front of the fashion pack. In any case, we'll be seeing plenty of this collection in the front rows and beyond next season.