By all rights, today's Kinder Aggugini show should have been a total mess. Its theme was "appropriation," according to the show notes; in practice, that meant that this collection was a cheerfully postmodern mash-up of cowboy motifs, baroque wallpaper, traditional menswear silhouettes and fabrics, Delftware, kids' TV icons, and more. How all of these references came to be sharing space in the hothouse of Aggugini's brain is a question for another day, but they formed a kooky unity on the runway.
The standout pieces were the ones in cowboy-dappled prints, in particular the sculpted minidresses and short skirts that had been treated with an acid to dislodge stray fibers. Aggugini aggressively mixed prints and materials, and the effect was chaotic, but appealingly so. There was an eccentric schoolgirl vibe here, one accentuated by the designer's integration of rolled-up tweed short shorts and oversize Melton wool coats into the mix; as with last season, you got the sense that his muse was that girl rummaging around in thrift-shop bins and getting inspired. The looks closing the show had a more grown-up affect: Aggugini turned out several pieces in a black tulle embroidered in wallpaper flock-patterned sparkles; he gamely played the material against a black silk printed with sculptures, and another in navy and white polka dot. Again, these looks should have been a mess, but Aggugini's artful juxtapositions gave the clothes a disheveled elegance.