The presentation at Paule Ka was set up like an airport gate, one that recalled a more pleasant era of flying. It served as backdrop to Serge Cajfinger's Fall story: a groovy clique of English girls who've stolen their parents' credit cards, raided their families' wardrobes, and are now off on an adventure.
The general feeling was sweet and sixties, with lots of standaway silhouettes. (You almost expected Roger Sterling to come strolling by and commence a witty flirtation.) To them Cajfinger added a dollop of characteristic quirk. It came partly from mixes of what he called "rich and poor," like the simple felt dresses, skirts, and little straw bags trimmed in chunky jewel beading, or the acid-bright mink collars that set classic coats in wool and vinyl nicely off-kilter.
There were also some unlikely pairings, like a cozy striped oversize pullover with a satin pleated skirt that Cajfinger called "the brother's sweater with the mother's skirt." The idea really shone in a surreal-cute sweatshirt printed with the still life of a potted plant paired with a satin skirt printed with a matching leaf motif. That's surely nothing that existed in 1964.
Cajfinger's cocktail teetered skillfully between girlish and elegant, and provided something for both sides—no mean feat when you're playing with eclectic mixes and complicated narratives. This collection should have Paule Ka fans right on board, preferably without having to commit felonies to do so.