It was easy to miss the first look at Revillon's intimate show. There was no music or pomp. But once you realized the show had started, it was hard to look away from the 23 exits of ultra luxury making the rounds in the fittingly exquisite Salon des Aigles in the Hôtel de Crillon.
Today's show was the debut of the furrier's new creative director, Andrew Heather, who spent 13 years working at Givenchy, having been originally hired by Alexander McQueen. Heather's most recent focus was haute couture. That showed in his ability to innovate techniques, for instance, replacing typical satin linings (one of his main fur pet peeves) with tweed that's sewn painstakingly onto the fur to make it, in effect, a double-faced fabric.
"I tried bonding, but it turned into cardboard," he explained. "This keeps the suppleness. Then you can do all sorts of things." One of those things was tailoring, cutting fox and sable into little peplum jackets, and piecing sheared mink with hair calf into narrow coats.
Heather's post was most memorably held by Rick Owens, who gave Revillon an edgy relevance. Heather's refreshed but still elegant vision takes a subtler route. That front-to-back contrast piecing with leather, hair calf, or even velvety sheared mink lightened things up both physically and in terms of flashy statement. Though it upped the sexiness factor on leather or shaved astrakhan pencil skirts backed in a body-hugging black ribbed punto di Milano. Lighter still were the lacquered tweeds Heather developed to play off the texture of all those pelts.
He may be a fur newbie, but Heather is quickly becoming a master. See the symmetrically engineered lines on the skunk coat that closed the show. "A skunk doesn't actually do that," he sighed.