The New Look is getting a new lease on life for Fall. At his show today,
Roland Mouret modified the silhouette that Christian Dior made famous in
1947. The jacket peplums weren't as generous, the skirts weren't half so
ample, but the general feel was there. That meant Mouret put a stronger
emphasis on tailoring than usual. As the designer of the world-famous Galaxy
dress, he must feel pressure, both internally and externally, to stay
focused on the proverbial one-piecer. But he was interested in the idea of
multiples this season. In fact, he mentioned the Great Freeze of 1947, one
of Europe's coldest winters on record, as the impetus for his focus on
layering. Jumpsuits, for instance, were designed to look like a gilet belted
over full-legged pants, but they were actually attached by a vertical zipper
in the back.
There was a lot of drama when it came to the rear view. Origamilike folds accented the shoulders of a smart checked jacket with a leather collar, and sleeveless coat-dresses turned and revealed themselves to be not coats but vests cropped above the waist. A lot of thoughtful consideration and fine craftsmanship went into these pieces. You couldn't help but think, though, that what will ultimately seduce his customers was the slip-it-on-and-go, modern sex appeal of the stretchy asymmetric dresses that closed the show.