Come early February in fashion circles, "I love Fall" is a common refrain. There's so much more for editors and buyers to latch onto with Fall collections. The coats! The boots! All those cozy layers! For designers like Helmut Lang's Michael and Nicole Colovos, who specialize in tailoring, this is the moment to strut their stuff, and strut they did tonight. Claiming the Guggenheim's Picasso Black and White exhibition by way of Richard Prince's Prince/Picasso show as inspiration, they delivered a strong collection with a Cubist motif that had echoes in what the husband-and-wife team described as the "sharp slouch" of the silhouette. It was a rebuff to a Spring collection that felt somewhat derivative and a reminder that they cut the sharpest pants in New York.
To start, they showed a coat, a jacket, and then a dress in heather gray with heat-transferred laser-cut film shapes swooping and arcing across their fronts. The technique was particularly successful on a short jacket with cross-body closure that was shown with the Colovoses' great-looking stovepipe pants. Graphic, geometric patterns recurred throughout the collection, as a print on an easy dress with short leather sleeves and a leather waistband, and on another dress engineered from over 125 pieces of leather, felt, ponyskin, and silk. Most of it worked, save for a pair of too-busy suits in a black and white version of that print.
If all that sounds a tad ornate, though, for every embellished piece, there was another one that was unadorned. A black coat with a contrast notched collar in gray and the double-breasted pantsuit worn underneath it skewed minimalist and sleek. As for cozy layers, it's hard to top a midnight blue rabbit fur jacket that they laser-cut for added depth and texture.