Holly Fulton, the soft-spoken Scot with a compulsion for more-is-more prints, said backstage that her collection was about "the obsessive love that a groupie has for her rock star, all the paraphernalia she collects, and her utter, slavish devotion to her object of desire." Fulton's appointed groupie was apparently Béatrice Dalle, the French gap-toothed eighties actress who will forever be known as the bonkers title character in Betty Blue, a film that charted her character's descent into madness.
A series of Fulton's signature geometric looks opened the show, consolidating her position as a print activist. True to her DNA, there were some bold combinations: a windowpane print blouse paired with a pencil skirt covered in hearts; M.C. Escher-esque geometric cubes combined with a photo-realistic tiger; and another pencil skirt with a standout motif of gigantic lipstick tubes offset by a fuzzy sweater with a jeweled neck.
But Fulton also showed her restrained side, with pieces like an exquisite knife-pleated leather dress with intricate embroidery and cutout waist detail, and a floor-length silk skirt topped by a screen-printed foil T-shirt. The best look came near the end in the form of a luxurious powder blue chinoiserie trouser suit (surprisingly for Fulton, accompanied by a matching fur). The suggestion was that the groupie had snared her prey to become a pampered rock-star wife.
This was a confident outing for Fulton, one of this year's winners of the Fashion Forward prize. Over the seasons, she has remained true to her Art Deco, occasionally OTT prints, no matter which way the fashion winds blew. This collection may reward her with some new fans.