Jean-Pierre Braganza is an unrepentant sci-fi nut. His collections always have a dystopian flavor; this season, he added notes of the samurai and occult. Whatever scenario was playing in Braganza's head would make great fodder for a book or a TV show; as it was, he parlayed his inspiration into clothes appropriate for some elegant Wiccans. The strongest looks here were the simplest: There was a terrific teal suit, for instance, comprised of voluminous trousers and a taut, lapel-free jacket, as well as a sinuously draped color-blocked gown. The standout, though, had to be a sculptural black dress that featured a panel of a panoramic landscape print. The print itself was a winter scene straight out of Game of Thrones, but the way Braganza used it was graphic, rather than thematic and specific. He could have played more with the ideas in that dress.
Instead, the majority of Braganza's prints had an Aleister Crowley vibe that women are either going to be very into, or very not. And as those printed looks were the focus of this collection, they necessarily narrowed its appeal. That said, there were more than a few pieces here that should be widely accessible, like the layered tuxedo coat in navy and black, which was shown over a no-brainer silk wrap dress. There's no question that Braganza is a designer capable of reaching women who don't share his insular point of view, or whose style only overlaps with it here and there; the question raised by this collection, as by others he's shown, is whether he wants to.