Martin Grant gave Lee Radziwill a kiss when he came out for his bow. Her name is all you need to hear to get a sense of the well-mannered and well-executed clothes on his runway today—and they weren't just for doyennes, either. Grant has an eye for the classic, which is why his front row is lined with the top brass from all the big department stores, but he's close enough to the center of things for his collections to feel of-the-moment.
Statement coats are a trending topic at the collections, and Grant has his own things to say on the subject. He opened with a tweedy navy style, collarless, with three buttons, rounded shoulders, and full bracelet sleeves. Something about the sleeves, in particular, made it look fresh. A pair of bell-shaped capes followed, and they, too, had an elegant, efficient way about them. Another coat came with a spill of ruffles down one side.
Beyond outerwear, reality-chic wardrobe essentials like a black pantsuit, a slim but not tight pencil skirt, and the perfect pair of cropped trousers rounded out the collection. Representing the things you didn't know you needed but suddenly would be thrilled to have were a midnight blue panne velvet turtleneck-sweatshirt hybrid and a sheer black blouse with a cascade of ruffles that would make a clever cocktail look with the right pair of pants. Evening got short shrift here, but that's a minor complaint about what was otherwise a fine show.