"You are fast-paced, athletic, and chic. You race all over from the Lower East to the Upper East Side…Make them die with envy!" Those were the notes for the models backstage at Michael Kors' show this morning. The designer sometimes takes us on a trip to Aspen or New England for Fall. This season he stayed in town, with somewhat mixed results.
Feeling urban and sporty, he lifted taxicab yellow and caution orange from the New York streets and juxtaposed them with plenty of the city girl's go-to black. Many of the tailored pieces seemed built for speed with rounded shoulders and aerodynamic double-face construction; black patent trim and taped seams evoked the world of car racing or maybe scuba. Goggles added to that feeling.
Mixing his metaphors, Kors also threw in all sorts of camouflage for the girls and the boys, most luxuriously in multicolor mink. That'll get you noticed on the sidewalk. Still, he was most convincing when he played it low-key. Plenty of urban warriors at the show would kill for his charcoal gray wool melton overcoat and the pantsuit shown underneath it. A plonge leather cropped jacket and zipped-slit pencil skirt would really take girls places. Same goes for the designer's clingy ribbed knits.
Kors' big idea for after dark, a fitted minidress with a peplum overskirt that extended all the way to the floor in back, is a look that's been gaining traction since the Dior Couture show last July. They weren't bad in those primary colors. But why not one or two of his signature, sleek stretch jersey tank dresses? With his sporty theme, those would've been a no-brainer.