It was a British pop culture fest at many of the shows in London today. And the same was true at that imported Italian house Moschino. The Cheap And Chic line seems to have resumed its rebellious edge since moving its show London. And perhaps it was no surprise, with the Met exhibition looming large, that the point of this collection spun around punk. Or, "pink punk, punk pink. It is a tongue twister," as the designer of the collection, Francesca Rubino, put it before the show. Working with Moschino's creative director, Rossella Jardini, her aim was to "take from punk culture the strongest, hardest elements and make them light. The fun is in the contrast; the electricity and energy is in the punk against the pink," Rubino said.
"It has definitely had an effect, us being here," she continued. "But to do punk in London is a bit like making pizza in Naples! So it is not really just punk: Punk goes to couture." It is this spirit that linked the presentation today with the Moschino pieces that are in the Met exhibition: a kind of ladylike post-post punk. As Mark E. Smith seethed on the soundtrack, "You don't have to be weird to be weird," after all. The Moschino output always makes its own sense in such a way. With Franco Moschino's appropriate appropriating codes in place, the beauty of the label is that anything can be up for grabs; it's allowed. So here the punk motif of the black and white striped mohair jumper was transformed into a jacket of stripey Mongolian lamb. A Perfecto-style leather jacket shape was elongated in shocking pink wool suiting fabric and teamed with slim-cut pants. Leopard print was layered in fur, silk, and ponyskin in an ersatz short skirtsuit with blouse. These were some of the looks that stood out and gave the proceedings a sharp sweetness, as opposed to a punk snarl.