Backstage this afternoon Nicolas Andreas Taralis was of more than one mind: "Is she strong or soft? Punk or uptown? She's a little bit lost, a bit all over the place," he said. It wasn't as discombobulated as all that on the runway. In fact, it was pretty standard stuff for Taralis. Mostly black, with some unexpected hits of indigo blue; edgy urban tailoring juxtaposed with witchy draped tops and a single evening dress; sheer fabrics and raw edges conveying the undone, unfinished quality he prefers.
Taralis himself isn't lost, but he does seem to be languishing a bit. There were pieces worth calling out here—leather hemmed coats on the strict side and, among the slouchier stuff, a biker jacket with sleeves pushed up past the elbows. Still, he needs to hit the "go" button, or risk even his longtime supporters drifting off. The indigo pieces suggest a way forward. We've never thought of him as a colorist, but a wool felt dress with a heavy industrial zip coiling around the torso that came in a midnight blue on top and Yves Klein blue below the waist proved us wrong. Nora Renaud, who designed the tiara crowns and spiky necklaces, deserves a callout of her own.