Today's Ohne Titel show was all about squares. That's no exaggeration: There wasn't a single look, or indeed a single piece, in Alexa Adams and Flora Gill's latest collection that didn't reference the shape in some way. Gill and Adams managed to do quite a bit with their limited theme, considering the square from every conceivable (ahem) angle. There were two key patterns here—a spare grid check, and a bricklike design inspired by work in Tauba Auerbach's recent Float exhibition—and Adams and Gill extrapolated them into silk prints, intarsia knits, and some very cool weaves. Gridded khaki and black jackets in a weave that fused tuck stitch and slip stitch were particularly good.
Elsewhere, the square theme was elaborated in pieces such as a coat gridded in fur, short skirts with pockets that extended from the hip to create a square shape, and looks partially covered in glimmering square paillettes. It was a bit like getting stuck in a chic Tetris game. Even the most diaphanous element here, the collection's watery organza peplums, were in fact squares of fabric, simply draped off the waist. The peplums were especially effective in the evening looks, so too the square paillettes. Evening isn't typically a strong category for Ohne Titel, but their sporty take on dress-up clothes was convincing (although the finale dress might need a bit of adjustment along the hem to make it really wearable). All in all, Adams and Gill deserve credit for taking what might have been an arid and constricting premise, and translating it into a surprisingly rich collection full of accessible, realistic clothes.