Since staging its first big runway show during New York fashion week last season, Osklen has been focused on recasting its sportswear, which has built up a strong Brazilian following over the past twenty-something years, to appeal to a more urban, global audience. While Spring's Endless Summer theme conjured up sandy beaches and surf culture, designer Oskar Metsavaht returned to the mountains for Fall, specifically the snowy peaks of the Andes, where he has traveled extensively in the past. (Metsavaht founded the label on high-tech performance gear for extreme climates.)
The inspiration played out here literally on a sweatshirt with a digital mountain print. There were also a few buffalo-plaid pieces, including a fluttery silk shirtdress that would fit in equally well at an après-ski chalet in Aspen or in front of a fireplace at some lodge-themed bar in Williamsburg. Overall, the lineup had a new, toughened-up attitude that was evident in scoop-back sweaters (an Osklen signature) with embroidered griffins as well as tapestry jackets and shearling leather vests. Styled with relaxed trousers and pointy flats, many of these pieces would translate to the city sidewalks and beyond.