Pringle of Scotland produced its last catwalk show a year ago, and
shortly thereafter announced that it was parting ways with its design
director and refocusing creative direction of the brand on making
updated versions of its signature cashmeres, twinsets, and argyles. Now
that some time has passed, it's possible to measure the scope of
Pringle's downsized ambitions. This collection found the brand threading
a very fine needle. The clothes Pringle presented today were certainly
well-executed and, in close-up ways, compelling, but they weren't
statement-making or "editorial." Nor were they pretending to be—the
looks were very clean, with a mod accent and some graphic pop, but the
action was all in the detail. Much as you'd expect, the standout pieces
here made innovative use of knit: One hands-down winner was the
snow-white gilet, with a thick, ottoman knit rib; other nice garments
included the tonal cream argyle sweater woven like a jacquard, and the
fuzzy black rollneck sweater in a tiered fur stitch. The effects were
understated, but these pieces did repay scrutiny, and they felt luxe.
Meanwhile, the most daring ensemble paired tailored trousers in a
pixilated argyle jacquard with layered sweaters in versions of the same
pattern; the cushiony rollneck sweater on top had the pattern printed
on, rather than knit in, which was interesting. All in all, there were
lots of excellent small ideas in this collection, and you could easily
imagine them being extrapolated into propositions worthy of a catwalk.
But Pringle of Scotland just isn't playing that game anymore.