"She's up to something, but you don't really know what," Rachel Comey said of her mysterious Fall 2013 heroine, a character introduced at today's runway show through models in short black wigs, many wearing progressive-lens sunglasses suitable for a Kojak-era detective.
There was a whole late-seventies menswear thing going on, with loose turtlenecks under V-neck sweaters, chino trousers, and sensible loafers. "A strong mens-y influence," as Comey put it.
Per usual, footwear was a focus, and beyond the multiple variations on loafers, there were slouchy ankle boots, tall boots with strong heels, and T-strap Mary Janes with aggressive hardware. And that was just the first few looks.
As the show progressed, the character transformed from hero to heroine, trading in her pleated and cinched trousers for slinky dresses that hit just below the knee. Unsurprisingly, Comey's body-con looks come in quirky prints. Frequent collaborator Gus Powell photographed the digital floral print, a shot of ripped- and smashed-up flowers. "I wanted the flowers to look like they exploded in some sort of dynamic way," she explained, "as opposed to just floating."
Comey's domain is daywear, and as separates, nearly every piece works. If there was one complaint, it would be that she showed a few too many styles. Pulling back a bit would have let the bright, eighties-ish denim—the designer's first time working with the material—stand out a bit more.