The luxurious room at the Savoy hotel that Roksanda Ilincic occupied for her show was transformed and disrupted by the use of carpet and plywood today. Something domestic and downbeat was provided by the set designer Gary Card—in fact, the strategic use of carpets for shows is rife this season in London: Carpets are in!—and it felt subversive in such a venue. A common, almost kitschy feel was provided by the kind of pink fuzzy paneling that was once used as a floor covering in suburban bathrooms; it was a pointer to the texture and feel of much of Ilincic's new collection.
Ilincic's offering felt like a cutting through of the ladylike-ness that is usually her stock-in-trade in favor of something a little more domestic and subversive. This was particularly evident in her predominant use of pink for the collection. Ilincic trained as an architect and cited this for some of the domestic interior feel that crept into the collection. "Because I studied architecture, I always start with a structural feel," she said. "But this season I wanted something unexpected for winter, and that is where the pink came in." Whereas at one point that color might have denoted discreet girlishness, here it felt decidedly Barbara Cartland–esque, maybe even a little punk in its fluffy mohair incarnations. The standout pink pieces were wipe-clean in nature—another trend in London: fabrics you can take a wet cloth to—and were a combination of pink PVC and high-shine taffeta. In one elegantly cut coat, the front featured PVC while the back was entirely taffeta. Another standout was a full skirt treated in a similar fashion with an unusual triangle cut that Ilincic defined as "witchy." In fact this witchy-ness was a motif throughout, particularly in the pointy shoes and the pointy bags. With that in mind, the pink took on the fantasy implications of Glinda the Good Witch.
Of course, where the Good Witch goes, the Wicked Witch of the West follows—and she was represented in a vivid green and dark chocolate brown that permeated the next passage of the show, and was particularly perverse in a coated lace that looked like it had been covered in dark brown gloss paint.
If Ilincic's last season was essentially about looking, this season is about feeling. "I wanted to create a feeling through both texture and structure," said the designer. And while this collection, with its kitsch witchy-ness, might not have the cohesiveness of her last outing, it certainly has more immediacy in color and an off-kilter coziness.