Brian Wolk and Claude Morais are dreamers with a business bent. This season, for instance, they introduced a shoe collab with The Frye Company, their eyewear is by the über-hip old-school Moscot, and they didn't forget to Instagram the Foco coconut waters on each front-row seat. As for the dream, they called their new show Reverie, and for inspiration revisited the Bowery of the nineteenth century, when it was lined with opium dens and theaters, not contemporary art galleries, haute pizzerias, and a vibe-destroying 7-Eleven.
Their romantic imaginings have sometimes tended to freeze their clothes in the past, but last season they smartly looked to their native Williamsburg for a creative spark, and their clothes seemed newly connected to the here and now. The collection landed them a dozen new retail accounts.
Crossing the East River produced slightly more mixed results, but that's mostly due to all those accessories partnerships. The caps and tassels and round wire eye frames weren't necessary when a silk printed with a Coromandel-screen motif efficiently relayed their message about Chinoiserie. Those excesses aside, there were smart pieces here: a purple chalk-stripe pantsuit; a metallic bouclé zip-front coat; a fitted peplum jacket in a floral jacquard; and cropped, flared pants in the same gorgeous fabric. Wolk and Morais have an abiding interest and a real eye for traditional couture materials. Here's a business proposition for them: a side consulting gig in which they share their expertise in fabric development with other labels.