The scene before tonight's Suno show was particularly vibe-y. Lots of banter, even more posing and picture taking, girls sizing up other girls' outfits, and at least one pair of silver platform sandals, blizzard warning be damned. Snow or not outside, there were plenty of Spring Suno outfits in the front row. It's a devoted crowd, which will serve the duo well once their Fall collection starts arriving in stores. If this wasn't a radical departure for Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis, it was nonetheless a vital change. Talking beforehand, Beatty said, "It's considerably more focused and there's a lot more black, but you have to do what you feel."
That isn't to say that they threw pattern out the window. Not quite. But as promised, black predominated, opening and closing the show, with smart-looking quilted outerwear at the beginning, and at the end, a coat-dress over pants combo embroidered in crystals that owed a debt to Prada. In the middle came a section of printed tunic tops, some with semi-detached bibs that Beatty likened to modern armor, worn over pants. The medieval reference points were handled delicately; those armorial shirts were paired with crisp pinstripes. Wearability has always been central to Suno's success, and key pieces here like an asymmetrical gray wool jacket, a pleated peplum shirtdress in plaid, and a Swarovski-embroidered crop top and matching skirt will no doubt enjoy their own moments in the paparazzi glow a year from now.
Bigger picture, we've been wondering when the craze for print would eventually die down (and secretly hoping that the end would come soon). Suno's new course is as good an indication as any that we're ready for a shift.