Vera Wang's tomboy phase is over. The designer changed things up a couple of years ago, swapping the three-dimensional volumes and jewel tones she made synonymous with her name in the mid-aughts for slimmer, garçon-ish, and often black clothes. Today, she made another switch, calling her collection an exploration of classic dressmaking in sculptural silhouettes. It wasn't a bad match. This was a pretty collection for Wang.
The show got off to a slow start with graphic layers like a black twill sleeveless cocoon coat with plunging armholes worn over a stone gray canvas shift. The canvas bandeaux that she sometimes added on top are a styling idea that won't make it past the runway. But she moved on fairly quickly. Wang can't resist a bit of fur, and her black fox cape, fastened at the neckline with a studded leather strap over a jeweled T-shirt dress, had charm. Another nice outfit for evening: a white fox wrap and leather opera gloves over a black Chantilly tunic and cropped pants in metallic lavender brocade.
Like most 48-look shows, this one could've used some pruning, but things really started looking up when Wang let the light in. Photos don't do justice to the iridescence of a youthful pink sequined and beaded V-neck dress. The tangerine and magenta jacquards of a pleated-neck top and a blossoming tulip skirt were especially lovely. And when those bandeaux reappeared under rose-print chiffon blouses with long trains and matching jacquard pants, they made a whole lot more sense.