There wasn't a big theme at today's Y-3 show so much as there was an overarching preoccupation. Yohji Yamamoto was playing around with proportion this season, and that was fodder enough for a solid collection. His experiments mostly centered on toying with the length and volume of trousers, and the women's looks ran the gamut of shapes on the bottom, from the pencil leg of a wool burgundy pinstriped suit to pairs of long, balloonish shorts, to billowing, wide-leg check pants.
The range of the menswear was somewhat less broad, with Yamamoto emphasizing volume below. His most interesting proposition was the baggy shorts with cinched hems, redolent of snowboarding apparel, which he showed over leggings. Those shorts seemed like a fashion-forward item that regular guys could get behind. Elsewhere in the menswear, Yamamoto proffered a few different jacket lengths: One of the strongest looks was a thigh-length blazer, mud brown, shown with a peppermint green button-down and baggy tan skater shorts.
In fact, that look characterized the other through-line of this collection, which was its marriage of gentlemanly English menswear with colors, patterns, and silhouettes fit for the X Games. A classic tailoring reference was particularly strong in the womenswear, while the men's collection stressed military-inspired looks; meanwhile, the activewear influence ran deepest in the menswear. But it was all of a piece. And on the whole, this collection had a nice unity, despite its various digressions. The tone was consistent, the experiments were thoughtful, and that sufficed.