Marjan Pejoski is clearly partial to the occult in his collections for KTZ, with all the runic graffiti he lavishes on his designs. The way he tells it, his latest outing was born under the sign of the Four Aitches: Hindu, Himalaya, Holy, Hockey. "Spiritual and secular, something old and something modern," he explained. Bali-based Pejoski has become fixed on India, particularly the holy men called sadhu who smear themselves with ashes. The models today had faces silvered as though by ash, but the effect the designer was actually after was the look of old black-and-white photographs of explorers in the Himalayas. He'd been asking himself how he could translate the draping and transparency of Indian clothing into a winter collection. Then the obvious answer presented itself: Go north, to the mountains.
So the clothes absorbed the features of indigenous clothing—the wrapped, voluminous silhouettes; the padding and quilting; the embroidered and mirrored embellishments—and he rendered everything in monochrome. The effect was less black-and-white photograph than icy cold alien. Pejoski duplicated the facial decoration of the sadhus in metal strips that alarmingly appeared like they'd been screwed into the models' skulls. Dressed in shimmeringly spectral all-white or sinisterly glistening black, with heads concealed under huge monkish hoods, the train of ghostly mannequins looked like nothing so much as a death cult long buried in a deep mountain valley—an anti-Shangri-la, perhaps—and now rising to claim its rightful place in the NHL.
Because don't forget, one of the Four Aitches was hockey, and one thing Pejoski has done very successfully is incorporate his eldritch influences into the kind of glamorous, overscale extreme sportswear that drives hip-hoppers and K-poppers into a delirium. They people KTZ's front row like visitors from another dimension, and Pejoski is their shaman.